Saturday, November 20, 2010

To Market, To Market...

Last weekend, I headed out to East London to do some field research for my upcoming art history paper. I jumped on the district line and headed out to the Aldgate East tube stop. Exiting the station, I turned left and walked down Commercial Street a couple of blocks until reaching Old Spitalfields Market... I've asked around and, unfortunately, Spitalfields is pronounced just as its written.... yeah. Anyway, the market is caty-corner to the towering gray Christ Church - you can't miss it - and fortunately the market is an infinately more pleasante experience than its name might suggest. Duck under the red brick archway and into a veritable paradise!

Spitalfields Market is a haven for consumers and intellectuals alike. Shops, stalls, restaurants, and food stands abound. The shops (permanent) and stalls (Sunday only) at Spitalfields Market sell anything from flowers and chocolate to refurbished furniture to unique wardrobe additions, fabulous accessories and succulent bites to eat. Plus, the scene is ripe for people watching. And, if all that is not enough to entice you, the history and architecture of the place is as rich and vibrant as the weekly characters the market attracts.  



The Spitalfields Market site has been the gathering point for sellers of goods from "bulky vegetables" in the late 17th century to "flesh, fowl and roots" and later silk in the 1800's. The market underwent renovations in the 1990's, and today it reflects the spirit of London through its melding of old and new to create a new, unique space that honors the past while welcoming the future.


A set of modern steal gates usher visitors into the historical market. 


A frosted glass sculpture is etched with the details of some the history of the Spitalfields Market site. 


An iron staircase leads up from the cobblestone floor to rows of colorfully lit frosted windows. 

After I had soaked up my fill of Spitalfields Market, I found my way back to Commercial St., but I wasn't quite through with my exploration for the weekend, so I headed North towards Shoreditch High St. At Shoreditch High, I took a right. 


Passing the marvelously modern stainless steal Shoreditch High Street station, I toook another right at Bethnal Green and made sure to keep to the right on to Sclater St as Bethnal Green split to the left. Finally, after one more right hand turn, I found myself on the famous Brick Lane. 

Though at first I saw nothing but another cobblestone street lined with old houses, to my delight, I could hear the cries of street vendors around the next bend. I followed my ear, and soon the colorful wares of a fresh fruit and veggie market stretched before me.


The colors popped against the day's dreary gray backdrop. 

I wandered down Brick Lane taking in the sites, smells and sounds around me. As I drifted further South, the market stalls lining the street filled out and diversified, but I was only interested in the smells. The slightly prickly scent of curry mingled with pungent smoke that poured off of street grills cooking well marinated pork, beef and chicken. The nostalgia provoking aroma of citrus, cinnamon, nutmeg and wine poured from the copious vats of mulled wine. Whiffs of espresso flitted playfully in between the rest. Grills sizzled, pots gurgled and vendors cackled and called. I beamed. What fun I had stumbled upon!

As I wandered the streets, I noticed that there were pockets of vigorous activity followed by small pockets of comparatively less activity. After further examination, I realized that this was because the Brick Lane market was actually comprised of a series of smaller markets all catering to the same crowd of people ambling down Brick Lane. Some of the markets included the Backyard Market, the Sunday Upmarket, the Vintage Market and the Boiler House Food Hall. 


The Boiler House Food Hall, held in the old Truman Brewery, was, in my opinion, the real gem of the lot. This was an old warehouse filled to the brim with food stalls featuring street food from every corner of the world. And if I thought the smells were titillating before, the fragrances that mingled in the air here were practically orgasmic. I highly encourage everyone to give the Boiler House Food Hall a go. 

Exhausted and full, I wandered my way back to the Aldgate East stop making sure to catch a glimpse of Fournier Street - a street particularly crowded with old Georgian style town homes - on my way.     

Click for more information on Spitalfields Market and Brick Lane.



2 comments:

  1. Great post and very great photos too - especially of the pomegranates. Thought you'd like to know that the Spitalfields Market is open Tuesday - Friday every week - not just Sundays. http://www.spitalfields.co.uk/traders.php

    Thanks

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  2. Thanks for the clarification! Such a great market. Fantastic news that it's open more days than I thought. Now all you readers have no excuse not to get out there and explore!

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